2 Days in Mumbai
Arriving into Bombay
India is a country I have always felt a deep longing to visit. I’ve been drawn to the magical chaos of the country from afar through adventurous stories of fellow travellers and vibrant images flooding social media, so it seemed fitting to make it the final stop on this 4 month trip.
I arrived on a sticky Saturday afternoon, and as I stepped off the plane I had the feeling of being blasted in the face with a hot hair dryer. I also noticed the smell of the air… Mumbai had a sort of metallic scent, of salty ocean, sweaty humidity and dried tea leaves. It was the first thing I noticed as I came out of the airport.
I jumped in an Uber and headed straight to the south, to Kala Ghoda where I had booked a little guest house called Abode Bombay. The taxi drive was a long hour, stuck in the infamous Bombay traffic the whole way. I had my eyes glued on the window as we navigated the twists and turns through the city.
It felt like I had arrived in another world, a world where spirituality and chaos collide in a burst of colour.
On every street corner, there was a lady dressed in brightly coloured saari, squatted low to the floor beside a table selling a variety of fresh fish, or over a silver tin scooping mouthfuls of curry by hand. Every second was filled with the intense beeping of car and motorbike horns, which appear to be a gesture performed for no apparent reason, or just something that is done when you pass by another car. The roads were chaos, with no attention paid to any lanes, rules, or road signs, but somehow with the traffic still dancing in and around each other and functioning without crashes.
The waste issue was another thing I noticed, with piles of plastic and used packaging forming giant dump piles on street corners and along the waters edge. There were street sellers everywhere, offering everything from jewellery, to clothing, to tech equipment to snacks. Prior to coming, I had already been asked so many times, “Aren’t you nervous to go alone?” As we wound our way through the streets, I didn’t feel threatened or in danger, but I knew this was a place I would have to remain streetwise and aware, in a new country where the colour of my skin and way I dress singles me out as a tourist immediately.
That evening I took myself out for dinner, and after scanning my recommendations settled on Trishna - an infamous, old school seafood joint located just a 10 minute walk from Abode. I pulled together an excellent list of the best bars, restaurants, and shops to visit in Mumbai as a tourist wanting an authentic cultural experience, whilst keeping safe and staying in the right areas. I’ve included this list below, updated as of March 2024, so make sure to check these places are open if you’re visiting.
Trishna’s is a must - famous for its butter crab and excellent fish selection dripping in flavour and spice. I sat on my own and ordered the butter crab, tandoori prawns and garlic naan. Shortly after, I was given a Trishna’s black bib and my crab utensils, and had most of the many older Indian waiters looking at me with a kind of puzzled but appreciative look. I could read on their faces, “What on earth is this young white woman doing here on her own?”
A huge part of me loves challenging popular beliefs and defying the status quo, “Yes I am here alone and yes I absolutely know how to handle eating a full crab on my own,” my reassuring smile responded.
It must have been quite the sight for diners and waiters alike, sat on a large table, butter dripping down my hands, picking into garlicky crab claws to get all of the sweet meat and cracking the shell open. My table was a complete mess, with spills and food splattered everywhere. It’s unavoidable with crab! The act of eating one is somehow more socially acceptable when you’re sharing with another person who is also committed to getting every last drop, and I giggled to myself at the sight of how I must look attacking it on my own. This didn’t make the taste any less incredible, and I finished every last drop of what was in front of me. Go to Trishna’s for the butter crab alone, and thank me later.
To eat:
Swati Snacks: looks like something from a Wes Anderson film, beautifully coloured plates serving traditional Indian fare
Subko Coffee (Bandra): excellent coffee and pastries
Boo Jee Café (Bandra): cute hipster modern café
145 Kala Ghoda: Mumbai club with pool table and mainly friendly Mumbai people
Chowpatty Beach is the main beach, which you wouldn’t necessarily need to go and chill at, but there is a section of street food vendors selling all sorts of delicious Indian plates. Some may say to avoid the street food, but personally I ate at 2 places here and loved it (my stomach was also fine)
Kala Ghoda Café: a local hangout, I enjoyed some lassi and a sweet snack here
The Bombay Canteen: stunning interior and delicious food, get here if you can
Veronica’s (Bandra): trendy deli if you get bored of Indian cuisine and fancy something else
Bandra Born (Bandra): experimental modern Indian fare, very cool
Pali Bhavan (Bandra): go here for a chilled out vibe, and a plate of daal and naan
To drink:
Café Leopold (Colaba Causeway): Founded in 1871, this is the infamous meeting point for Shantaram. Anyone who has read this book will have read about the legendary stories of Leopold and Mondegar, and you would be missing out if you didn’t pop into one of them for a drink and snack, or at least to soak up the atmosphere
Café Mondegar (Colaba Causeway): both are near to the guesthouse I stayed at, and I sat and enjoyed a cold drink and some mouth watering chicken tikka here on my last night in Mumbai. It’s an electric place, full of energy.
AER (Bandra): if you want to experience the luxury side of Mumbai, or simply to enjoy the best sunset in the city, take yourself up to AER on the 33rd floor of the Four Seasons hotel. The views are incredible, drinks delicious, and it will give you an insight into the other side of Mumbai life. I went alone, and left with a crew of 15 of the sweetest locals for an evening of fun!
Slink and Bardot: high end hospitality, food and drinks! I didn’t get the time to go, but I included it as it was mentioned on every list I have been sent.
Other points of interest
I stumbled upon this street filled with book sellers and purchased a huge amount of quality books for next to nothing. It was magical just to walk around the piles of books piled high, and as far and wide as the eye can see.
Dharavi slum - you can visit and do a tour at the largest slum in the world, Slumdog Millionaire was filmed here and you will see what the harsh reality of slum life is like. Ensure you use a trusted partner to book.
Elephanta Caves
The Gateway of India
Vipassana Pagoda
Juhu Beach: I wouldn’t say it’s the best beach I’ve ever visited, but there are a few hotels like Sun n Sand and Sea Princess where if the city or heat gets too much, you can pay a day fee and lounge by the pool for the afternoon
Dishes you should taste
Pav Bhaji / Pavhaji - tomato based curry with bread roll and diced onions & lime juice (MUST TRY!)
Vada pav - fried potato in bread
Vada sambar - fried donuts for brekkie
Bel Puri - crunchy rice, veg, tamarind
Pani Puri - crunchy breaded sphere with potato/chickpeas and a spicy soup
Masala Dosa - a sort of Indian pancake
Uttapam - type of dosa, which is a thicker pancake with toppings
Art Galleries (Modern Art)
(These are all in the same area, so if you have half a day, take your time and visit multiple. Most are closed Sunday & Monday so check opening times).
Jhaveri Contemporary
Chemould Colab
Experimenter Mumbai
Chatterjee and Lal
The locals will always refer to Mumbai as “Bombay”, because the city only officially changed to being called Mumbai in 1995. I met an amazing group of people who took me under their wing when I was at AER at the Four Seasons, and when I spoke to them about this differentiation, they told me, “Mumbai is a geographical location, Bombay is a feeling.” After 2 days in the city, this made a lot of sense. Mumbai is a genuinely magical city with an unmatched energy, unlike anywhere I have ever been before.
At so many points throughout my time in Mumbai, my eyes were wide open and my smile bigger than ever - witnessing those corners of a life so different to my own. The ladies on the side streets selling fresh fish, the man kneeled over making jewellery, the muscled arms making sugar cane juice from large roots of sugar cane, the men huddled together in a circle on the floor for their morning chai… Bombay is somewhere everyone should visit with an open and curious mind, to taste, to feel, and most importantly to witness and observe.
If you enjoyed this post, share it with a friend or think about subscribing to my newsletter for more travel writing. Thank you!
