Kerala: Fort Kochi
I left Varkala with a heavy heart, but at the same time an excitement longing for when I might be back. You know when you get that feeling that pulls you strongly to stay in a place? My planned 4 days turned into 2 weeks and I didn’t have a single regret about that choice. One of the most difficult parts about travelling are the goodbye’s. I met two friends for life at the Ashram and spent time creating deep connections and friendships during our time in Varkala. This was the point I said goodbye and we parted our separate ways, which hit me harder than I thought.
It made me reflect on just how deeply drawn to connection and community we are as humans, it runs deep in our purpose even when we are seeking moments of solitude. I think there’s something pretty special about that constant ability for openness.
Next on my journey was Fort Kochi - a historical art town, which was totally different to Varkala. I enjoyed a few days here entirely on my own, and spent my days getting lost in the back streets to find what this corner of India was all about. Fort Kochi a town that beckons you to look past the tourist hotspots and dig a little deeper into its heart.
I had the pleasure of taking the train to Kochi from Varkala, which was rather than just a way of getting from A to B, a whole travel experience in itself. There’s many different carriage options, ranging from cheapest to more expensive. I went for the middle option after I saw people literally ramming each other in shoulder to shoulder in intense heat and humidity, dripping in sweat and luggage somehow fitting in between the chaos, like the most unorganised Jenga tower you’ve ever seen. I had my own chair and loved observing the trolleys pass by with hot chai and sweet Indian biscuits for basically the equivalent of a penny.
When I arrived, checking into Costa Gama Homestay really set the tone for my visit. Nestled in a quiet lane, the homestay felt less like a guesthouse and more like staying with a warm, extended family. The hosts, ever ready with tips or a helping hand, shared insights that shaped my exploration over the next three days.
Each morning began with a ritual: breakfast at the Teapot Café (newly named “Chez Teapot”). With its mismatched vintage decor, teapot displays, and cosy nooks, it felt like stepping into a slice of another era. The chai was brewed to perfection, and each morning I’d enjoy a hot spicy cup with fluffy masala omelettes, hot honey pancakes or fresh Indian breads. The café’s calm ambiance was the perfect prelude to my day, offering a peaceful spot to plan, journal, or simply enjoy a chai and watch a world so different to my usual surroundings. I drifted back to the freedom of solo travelling, which if it’s not something you’ve done before, I really cannot recommend enough. It’s in these times where I’ve really shaped my relationship to myself, and always found deep clarity when solo adventuring.
Take a stroll past the centre of town where you’ll see the Chinese fishing nets, their giant wooden frames silhouetted against the shimmering Arabian Sea. Early morning and sunset are when they’re most active, fishermen rhythmically lowering and raising the nets as gulls circle overhead. Nearby, Vasco da Gama Square offers a small but lively square and walkway where vendors sell everything from coconut water to fresh seafood ready for the grill. While undeniably popular with tourists, the area retains its charm, particularly in quieter moments. The highlight of my time in Varkala was the parts nestled away from this tourist centre on the winding side alleys of the other side of the port.
I noticed dotted around Fort Kochi’s back alleys the boutique art scene. So many cafe’s have art galleries or showcases of local artists happening inside. They mostly all have outdoor areas where you can grab a stool, order an iced drink to combat the humidity, and observe the world go by.
If you’re in Fort Kochi, be sure to check out:
After much online research combined with wandering around, I gathered that there are very much two sides to Fort Kochi.
The “local” restaurants that are made for tourists, offering less spicy, more expensive local plates… then the back street tea shops and street eats that are on the other side of the port and not generally visited by tourists. Although most food in this part of the world seems comparatively inexpensive compared to home, you really can find some incredibly affordable and delicious food if you’re willing to explore off the beaten track.
After a deep dive into Instagram’s explore feed on Kochi, I discovered a reel created by a local - showing his favourite places to dine around the area. I wish I could find the video to credit him now, but I can’t explain how glad I am to have stumbled upon his video content… it created my 3 day itinerary of where to eat and I would have never found these places on my own.
For lunch, I ventured off the beaten path to Achukka’s Tea Shop, a beachfront cart buzzing with energy. This humble spot had locals spilling out, chatting animatedly over plates of snacks. From steaming chai to fried banana fritters, the flavours were incredible, and the sense of community heart filling.
Later, I found my way to Hotel City Star. Picture the scene - I walk down a back street filled with locals going about their day to day lives, delicious smells filling the air, kids running around playing imaginary games, the fast paced life of India a blur before my eyes. I lock eyes with the restaurant owner, who has a perplexed look on his face - something I’ve become accustomed to taking myself on these adventures on my own. I could read on his face the expression painted plain and clear - what is this young white woman doing in this part of Kochi? I cracked a smile, nodded and slightly tilted my head. I love how body language is universal. A huge grin spread across his face as he pulled back the flappy thick plastic curtain to the restaurant and gestured me inside.
I was met with silence, as every table of older men inside stopped what they were doing, nudged their friends to look at the entrance. A fizz of nervous energy and excitement pulsated through my being - I’m obsessed with these interactions. I took a seat at a table and the man was eagerly waiting to approach. Of course, neither of us could speak each other’s language, so what proceeded was some more intimate body language, noises, and gestures that I hoped he interpreted as “I’ll have whatever you recommend”. In this no-frills spot I was then served the most tender, deliciously marinated plate of beef with rice. The buttery parottas soaked up every drop of flavour. You know you’re in the right kind of place when they don’t have cutlery to offer you. THIS is what travelling is about for me.
Go to the places people don’t expect you in. See how the locals eat and live. You’'ll pay a fraction of the price and have 10x the experience.
Another meal worth mentioning was at Rani’s Vegetarian Restaurant, where their chilli gobi (cauliflower in a tangy, spicy batter) paired with fresh chapati served pure comfort on a plate. This was another place I had seen on this stranger’s Instagram reel, and as I sat there in pure mindful connection with my food and experience, I sent deep gratitude to the dude who created that piece of content.
Walking through Jew Town was like flipping through the pages of history.
Synagogue Street, lined with antique shops and boutiques, felt timeless, each corner offering a picture perfect scene. Whether it was intricate brass lamps, handwoven textiles, or delicate spice boxes, every item seemed to carry a piece of Fort Kochi’s cultural tapestry. At the end of the lane, I stopped by the Ginger House Restaurant for a drink overlooking the serene waters, a quiet pause amidst the bustle. Not the most authentic place, and definitely not cheap by local standards, however it made for an appropriate stop for a sugar cane juice and moment to rest in the humidity.
While Fort Kochi is undeniably beautiful, its soul lies in the places where locals gather, away from the polished tourist circuit. One afternoon, I wandered through residential lanes, greeted by smiling faces and the sound of children playing cricket. The pastel-washed walls, lined with creeping bougainvillea, framed daily life: women drying fish, men tinkering with their bikes, and shopkeepers selling spices and sweets. It’s always difficult to fully capture these moments on camera, but the images below are my best shot!
The simplicity and warmth of these interactions made me appreciate the slower rhythm of the town.
Practical Tips
Getting Around: Fort Kochi is best explored on foot or by renting a bicycle. The streets are small, and you’ll want to take your time soaking in the sights.
Pack for Comfort: Light, breathable clothing is essential for Kerala’s humid weather, hat / SPF essential!
Timing Matters: Early mornings and evenings are cooler and quieter, ideal for exploring popular areas like the Chinese Fishing Nets and Vasco da Gama Square.
Be Adventurous with Food: Street food and small local restaurants often serve the most memorable meals. Always ask the locals for their recommendations!
Parting Thoughts
Fort Kochi isn’t a destination you rush through; it’s one you ease into. Its layers reveal themselves slowly, through shared meals, gallery strolls, or the rhythmic sweep of fishing nets against the horizon. For me, these three days were about more than ticking sights off a list—they were a gentle reminder to look closer, to savour, and to stay present.
As I boarded my train out of Kochi, I reflected on the time in this little coastal town: amazing flavours, warm conversations, and a sense of belonging that stays with you long after you leave. If you’re searching for a destination that offers both vibrancy and calm, Fort Kochi might just be the perfect stop on your Indian adventure.
