Modena & Bologna: A Foodie’s Dream
As Andy’s 30th birthday was approaching, I was contemplating for months what location I wanted to take him to in order to celebrate this new decade in his life. Whilst watching an episode of one of our favourite TV shows Chef’s Table, it occurred to me - I wanted to take him to Osteria Francescana, the infamous Italian home of Massimo Bottura’s cooking. It was the very first episode of season 1 where the film crew take you on the journey of his life and he paints the picture of his epic life story through the dishes he presents in his restaurant. Modena itself is known for also being a region of Italy rich with some of the top quality produce in the world. Home to everyone’s favourite cheese Parmigiano Reggiano, delicious balsamic vinegar, as well as less widely known but equally as sensational local treats like gnocco fritto, finelle bread. The region Parma is also very close by, so all menus will have a delightful selection of melt-in-the-mouth cured meats. Modena is a region bursting with unbelievable fresh food literally everywhere, and I knew it was going to be somewhere we would fall in love with.
Getting to Modena
Getting to Modena is relatively simple and affordable. We flew into Bologna, which is the closest major airport, and then caught a train to Modena. The train ride is about 30 minutes and costs around €4-€6 per person, providing a quick and scenic route to our destination. Alternatively, we could have taken an Uber for around €70, but the train offered a more authentic and cost-effective experience, letting us glimpse the picturesque Italian countryside.
Exploring Modena
Upon arrival, Modena immediately charmed us with its unspoiled beauty and timeless atmosphere, feeling like a step back in time to a less touristy side of Italy. We began our culinary adventure with lunch at Trattoria Ermes, an absolute must-visit. The tagliatelle ragú was exceptional, and the experience was heightened by the lively local crowd and the fact that nobody spoke English. It was imperative to book in advance to secure a spot at this beloved eatery.
Of course, the highlight of our trip was Osteria Francescana, but perhaps not for the reason you’re expecting. We had a slight mishap when we first arrived at the door of the restaurant, for our table at 7pm. The restaurant was closed and didn’t open until 8pm, despite our booking definitely saying 7. At 8pm we ventured back, only to be told our names were not confirmed on the list of bookings. My heart absolutely sank, as panic set in… How can this be? When I showed the team my confirmation email, they confirmed that we had booked Osteria Francescana at Casa Maria Luigia, a second site 30mins drive outside of Modena. We rushed in a taxi, aware of our extreme tardiness as we pulled into a stunning driveway blooming with electric pink bougainvillea flowers. My panic subsided as I witnessed and took in the incredible location we found ourselves in, like something from a classic Italian movie. We were welcomed by one of the staff, who squeezed my arm and told me not to worry, that we hadn’t missed our seating, and that we were in fact “in luck” becayse Massimo Bottura himself was at this location this evening. The geusthouse and restaurant was very diffeent to the main restaurant in Modena, with a more relaxed feel, sharing tables, and a menu of all of Bottura’s most iconic dishes (i.e. the one’s we had oogled over on Chef’s Table.) I truly believe everything happens for a reason, and whilst we didn’t get the gastronomic experience of tasting his new developed dishes, we both decided after the meal as we sat by an open fire in the Italian countryside, red wine in hand and HUGE smile on Andy’s face having shook hands with Massimo, that this was a far better option anyway. Massimo Bottura's legendary dishes lived up to the reputation, with each dish telling a story and showcasing the finest local ingredients. Dining here was more than a meal; it was an unforgettable experience that celebrated the essence of Modena's culinary heritage.
For breakfast, Cathedrali Pasticceria was a delight, offering the best pastries and cappuccino in town. We particularly enjoyed the gnocco fritto, a local specialty that paired perfectly with our morning coffee. Trattoria Il Fantino was another gem, where we indulged in traditional Modenese dishes in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere.
Gelateria K2 provided the perfect sweet treat, with creamy, flavourful gelato that was hard to resist. Another highlight was Artigiani del Gusto, a fresh market with food stands that made for an ideal lunch spot. The variety of fresh produce and artisanal products was impressive, showcasing the best of what Modena had to offer.
For a relaxing afternoon, Parco Giovanni Amendola, located just outside the city center, was perfect for a sunny morning or afternoon chill. It provided a peaceful retreat from the bustling streets and a chance to enjoy the natural beauty of the area.
When it came to nightlife, Modena did not disappoint. The Cotton Club, a speakeasy jazz bar, was a must-visit for its unique ambiance and live music. Benny’s Bar was perfect for an afternoon aperitivo, while Juta was a busy spot popular with the local youth. Freedom Bar and Slanzi Pub & Vinyl also offered lively atmospheres and great drinks, rounding out our evening experiences.
Bologna
On our way back from Modena, we made a brief stop in Bologna, only spending half a day before our flight home. Despite the short visit, Bologna left a lasting impression. We started at Piazza Maggiore, the main square, where the bustling atmosphere and stunning architecture captivated us. For lunch, we headed to Trattoria del Rosso, where we enjoyed traditional Bolognese cuisine that lived up to its reputation.
A visit to Finestrella provided a charming viewpoint over a quaint canal, a hidden gem in the city. We also explored Mercato delle Erbe, a delightful fresh food market where the vibrant stalls and local produce offered a feast for the senses. Via Pescherie Vecchie, a street lined with excellent trattorias, was another highlight. Although we didn't have time to visit, Osteria Dell Orsa came highly recommended and is on our list for next time.
To round up, both Modena and Bologna stole a piece of our hearts with their rich culinary traditions, charming streets, and welcoming atmosphere. These cities offer a glimpse into a less touristy, more authentic side of Italy that is truly enchanting. Whether you're a food lover, history buff, or just looking to explore a beautiful part of the world, Modena and Bologna are destinations that should definitely slide into your next European travel adventure list.
